tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22606217117465213842024-03-14T19:56:24.371+11:00The Constant MeddlerPaul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-44594582994253961012017-12-31T09:58:00.002+11:002018-01-17T09:38:23.735+11:00Don't buy from Pswpower!Considering buying from Pswpower? Read on for some sobering advice...<br />
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Recently I purchased an electric bike kit. I wanted to try out the torque sense system in a Chinese mid-mounted motor setup.<br />
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I have all the bike tools I could possibly need and plenty of electronics knowledge.<br />
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One thing I have learnt about myself is that a love a great deal! To that end I decided to go with a kit rather than a complete bike and to order direct from China using AliExpress. I ordered the VLCD5 + TSDZ2 electric bike kit (no battery) from Pswpower and Samsung cell battery from another seller to get the best deal on each.<br />
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The battery took about 4 weeks to arrive. The delay was in part due to 1 week for assembly (I guess they are made to order?) plus a mysterious 2 week delay after arriving in Australia (security measures for battery imports?). The order from Pswpower arrived in an impressive 4 days! However, my feelings about the 2 AliExpress vendors were soon to be reversed.<br />
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The electric bike kit remained in the box for 3 weeks while I waiting for the battery to arrive. When the battery finally arrived I installed the kit. I found I had to fabricate a custom aluminium bracket to suit my bike frame, but for me this was all part of the fun! Overall installation was easy.<br />
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First problem I encountered was speed display quickly shot up to 99.9km/h at walking pace.<br />
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My oscilloscope confirmed the speed sensor hall effect device was faulty. Multiple pulses from the sensor during single pass of the magnet.<br />
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When I contacted Pswpower about the faulty sensor I was told I had to pay for a replacement sensor.<br />
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When I pushed for the item to be replaced under warranty I received this:<br />
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But I had more issues. I frequently saw E04 error and the system stops working altogether. <br />
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Confusing wording in initial response from Pswpower left me curious.<br />
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At least the next response was clearer.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qbtzm7u7ff8/WkgTeWDy2FI/AAAAAAAAg50/1wnDjzmHaEQV7ImVBagRkEnq3hAfe2GvQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017-12-31_9-30-01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="47" data-original-width="188" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qbtzm7u7ff8/WkgTeWDy2FI/AAAAAAAAg50/1wnDjzmHaEQV7ImVBagRkEnq3hAfe2GvQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017-12-31_9-30-01.png" /></a></div>
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And, the torque sensing system had problems too. It worked ok on initial take off but after coming to a stop and attempting to take off again the torque sense no longer functions and I am left pedalling without any electric help!<br />
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I asked again for warranty replacement from Pswpower and I received:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GELDyDGECQM/WkgTPeNa4zI/AAAAAAAAg58/H-7t7bvslYAAQEClXy6YcJ9fVU1_LDX8gCEwYBhgL/s1600/2017-12-31_9-28-47.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="90" data-original-width="358" height="100" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GELDyDGECQM/WkgTPeNa4zI/AAAAAAAAg58/H-7t7bvslYAAQEClXy6YcJ9fVU1_LDX8gCEwYBhgL/s400/2017-12-31_9-28-47.png" width="400" /></a></div>
Hmm... maybe a template response?<br />
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That's where I am today. AliExpress buyer protection has expired too so I am not able to open a dispute via the AleExpress website. I am left with a completely unusable electric bike and a seller that won't honour their warranty.<br />
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My advice: <b>Don't buy from Pswpower.</b><br />
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<br />Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-64466274325805485672016-07-10T20:56:00.004+10:002016-07-10T20:56:53.437+10:00BMW X5 E53 4.4i Alternator Rebuild<h2>
BMW X5 4.4i Alternator Rebuild </h2>
After successfully rebuilding the 180A Valeo alternator on a BMW E53 4.4i I thought I'd post a rebuild procedure.<br />
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Parts needed</h3>
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<li>Bearing o/d:47mm i/d:17mm thick:14mm</li>
<li>Bearing o/d:35mm i/d:15mm thick:11mm</li>
<li>Regulator (BMW 12318510090)</li>
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Tools</h3>
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<li>1/2 inch drive, long T50 torx male</li>
<li>24mm socket, modified to allow external spanner (see pics below)</li>
<li>ThreeBond 1207B sealant</li>
<li>Long 16mm socket (e.g. spark plug socket) for installing small bearing. </li>
<li>Bearing puller</li>
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Pre-work </h3>
Removing the fan cowl is essential. Removing the radiator is not strictly necessary, but it makes the job of getting the alternator out much easier and avoids accidentally damaging the radiator. I removed the radiator :-)<br />
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Procedure</h3>
There are 2 bearings a large and a small one.<br />
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The small bearing is pressed onto the rotor shaft using the 16mm spark plug socket. <br />
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There's not a lot of clearance below the small bearing, which necessitated the purchase of new bearing puller tool. Cool! <br />
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The larger bearing presented a separate problem. The rotor should slide into the large bearing - but it was stuck in the old bearing on this unit. The retaining plate was completely destroyed when I pressed out the rotor from the case.<br />
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This was a perfect opportunity to have another play with Fusion 360. Here's the replacement plate I decided to fabricate:</div>
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I have shared my Fusion 360 design and you are free to use it: <a href="http://a360.co/29eWFaN">http://a360.co/29eWFaN</a></div>
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Please ping me (for karma) if you fabricate my design.<br />
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Here's the fabricated plate installed with the new bearing in place.<br />
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Before re-assembly clean out the old black/grey sealant from both sides.<br />
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I used ThreeBond 1207B that I had in my toolbox (from the time I rebuilt the intake manifold system on this same car)<br />
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Apply the ThreeBond sealant to both halves.<br />
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Note the rubber seal (3mm x 1mm cross-section) just below the windings.<br />
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Excess sealant after screwing the casing back together. I removed the excess with a rubber spatula then cleaned up with acetone.<br />
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Install new regulator assembly (no pics of this unfortunately).<br />
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This is the 24mm nut that retains the pully. <br />
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A modified 24mm 1/2 inch socket is required so a spanner can be used while a long T50 torx stops the shaft from rotating. </div>
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Thanks for reading.<br /><br />Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-60682542344579173112016-03-30T20:58:00.000+11:002016-05-10T08:57:09.721+10:00USB Cable Tester using Arduino UNO<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_1807000773">Have you even wondered why your tablet or phone charges faster with one cable and slower with another?</span><br />
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<span id="goog_1807000773">I did, and questions like this keep me awake at night. So, I designed a USB Cable Tester using an Android UNO board. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HKI-prZLhRY/VvppqRtcjRI/AAAAAAAAAb0/YR1bCOW_cdwiXIFMFbl2BxqiWWgvcVVrg/s1600/IMG_3619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HKI-prZLhRY/VvppqRtcjRI/AAAAAAAAAb0/YR1bCOW_cdwiXIFMFbl2BxqiWWgvcVVrg/s320/IMG_3619.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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This device measures the charge efficiency of a micro-USB cable by passing 0.5A through the cable and measuring voltage at various points. <br />
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To calculate the efficiency, we assume that the input current I<span style="font-size: xx-small;">TEST</span> is identical to the output current that flows through the 10 ohm load resistor. I.e. the internal resistance of the cable is negligible.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YFYvSjLpemw/VvuL8hnEOXI/AAAAAAAAAcY/3k0sXCNCBYIM0-vwDipkUUSP4mTdNdbfg/s1600/usb%2Bcable%2Btest%2Bdiagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YFYvSjLpemw/VvuL8hnEOXI/AAAAAAAAAcY/3k0sXCNCBYIM0-vwDipkUUSP4mTdNdbfg/s400/usb%2Bcable%2Btest%2Bdiagram.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The efficiency is the ratio of input and output power, which simplifies down to the ratio of input and output voltage.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uucSdah4d4U/VvuMsk-wUXI/AAAAAAAAAcg/S7nN6DJg-cUXShb5ZvYVGbM9BGbycR-uw/s1600/equations.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uucSdah4d4U/VvuMsk-wUXI/AAAAAAAAAcg/S7nN6DJg-cUXShb5ZvYVGbM9BGbycR-uw/s200/equations.PNG" width="200" /></a></div>
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In order to get the most accurate result possible, this circuit measures both +ve and -ve sides of both Vout and Vin; and measurement points are taken as close as possible to the usb connectors.<br />
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The connections to the Arduino analog pins A0 - A3 are shown in the circuit diagram below. Vcc is wired to 5V.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LaQ-pSm6Wws/VvuNU2mkrBI/AAAAAAAAAco/3GCXw8GvTtwD6qElLJvF2Oo0c08h0skEQ/s1600/circuit.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LaQ-pSm6Wws/VvuNU2mkrBI/AAAAAAAAAco/3GCXw8GvTtwD6qElLJvF2Oo0c08h0skEQ/s320/circuit.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And here's the Arduino code. Initially I found the value on the display 'flickered' as the Arduino was updating the display hundreds of times a second. In this version of the code I have implemented oversampling in an attempt to provide a more 'stable' display of the efficiency value.<br />
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<script type="syntaxhighlighter" class="brush: cpp"><![CDATA[
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
#include <stdlib.h>
// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins
LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);
float total = 0;
char buff [6] = " ";
const int numReadings = 10;
float readings[numReadings]; //array to calculate average and improve stability of display
int readIndex = 0;
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
analogReference(DEFAULT); //0 - 5V
// set up the LCD's number of columns and rows:
lcd.begin(16, 2);
lcd.print("USB Cable Tester");
// initialize all the readings to 0:
for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
readings[thisReading] = 0;
}
}
void loop() {
lcd.setCursor(0,1);
total = total - readings[readIndex];
readings[readIndex] = readAndCalcEfficiency();
//efficiency of 0.1% or less must be no cable connected
bool noCable = readings[readIndex] < 0.1;
total = total + readings[readIndex];
readIndex++;
if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
readIndex = 0;
}
if (noCable)
{
lcd.print(" -- No cable --");
}
else
{
dtostrf(calcAvg(readings) * 100,2,0,buff);
lcd.print("Eff.: ");
lcd.print(buff);
lcd.print("% ");
}
}
float calcAvg(float readings[]){
//filter out the 'co cable' readings from the average calculation
int numValidReadings=0;
for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
if (readings[thisReading] >=0.1)
numValidReadings++;
}
float avg = total / numValidReadings;
return avg;
}
float readAndCalcEfficiency() {
//delay of 10ms between reads from different analog pins improves accuracy
int val0 = analogRead(0);
delay(10);
int val1 = analogRead(1);
delay(10);
int val2 = analogRead(2);
delay(10);
int val3 = analogRead(3);
delay(10);
float eff = (float)(val0-val1)/(val2-val3);
return eff;
}
]]></script>
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And finally, here's some pictures of the device in use.<br />
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A good cable (the best on I could find lying around) measured an efficiency of a little over 98%:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WUFxa0Icjhg/Vvppt8CIwTI/AAAAAAAAAcE/pyxc876Vpt4a43Yzze6NakqC--Il2XgLA/s1600/IMG_3620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WUFxa0Icjhg/Vvppt8CIwTI/AAAAAAAAAcE/pyxc876Vpt4a43Yzze6NakqC--Il2XgLA/s400/IMG_3620.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div>
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And here's an el-cheapo cable that measured a loss of nearly 10% You know you wan't get optimal charge time with this one:</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggv9ePdyy7A/VvpptwYj00I/AAAAAAAAAcA/sZC9aif8PE8inZTjp3FveRKQF-q_VD11w/s1600/IMG_3621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggv9ePdyy7A/VvpptwYj00I/AAAAAAAAAcA/sZC9aif8PE8inZTjp3FveRKQF-q_VD11w/s400/IMG_3621.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div>
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If you build this yourself please post a comment and let me know how it turned out. Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-61208558665008846972014-11-09T16:42:00.000+11:002016-03-22T16:29:29.701+11:00Simple R/C Battery Eliminator (Voltage Regulator) using parts salvaged from ATX Power Supply<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the course of building a Tamiya Blitzer Beetle with my son, we realised that the receiver unit couldn't be connected directly to the main 7.2V battery because the receiver has a required input voltage of 4.5V to 6.0V. I didn't want to add a 4xAA battery pack, so we got to work desiging a voltage regulator. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We took some current measurements of the receiver and found it could draw up to around 800mA.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Design parameters:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Input voltage: 7.2V</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Output voltage: </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">4.5V to 6.0V</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Output current: 1.0A </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For an added challenge I thought I'd see if I could build this circuit using parts I had lying around. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The key to this circuit is the TL431 Programmable Shunt Regulator. TL431 are very common in ATX power supplies and are essentially an adjustable voltage reference. Here's the TL431 block diagram:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tijErgmy8gA/VF7yb5UbIPI/AAAAAAAAAF0/xqm-imFVsi4/s1600/TL431%2Bblock%2Bdiagram.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tijErgmy8gA/VF7yb5UbIPI/AAAAAAAAAF0/xqm-imFVsi4/s1600/TL431%2Bblock%2Bdiagram.PNG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now, In order to supply the 800mA current we needed (TL431 is only rated to 100mA) we added an NPN power transistor (KSC5027, also salvaged from the same ATX psu). Pretty much any NPN transistor will do provided it has sufficient current rating.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's the circuit:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoFdJTBFLNY/VF7ydEsB6LI/AAAAAAAAAF8/-HUZfKgEaWY/s1600/Battery%2BEliminator%2BCircuit.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoFdJTBFLNY/VF7ydEsB6LI/AAAAAAAAAF8/-HUZfKgEaWY/s1600/Battery%2BEliminator%2BCircuit.PNG" width="400" /> </a> </div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G2nzqCaVYvE/VF78PDuthRI/AAAAAAAAAG4/JeOE7nRwkME/s1600/Equations.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G2nzqCaVYvE/VF78PDuthRI/AAAAAAAAAG4/JeOE7nRwkME/s1600/Equations.PNG" /></a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">'Power Controller' is the 7.2V connection.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">R1 and R2 were chosen for a designed output voltage of 5.0V. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When the input voltage falls below about 5.6V, the output voltage will simply be input voltage less v</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">oltage drop across B-E of the transistor. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At 5.59V input with 1.0A load we get 5.0V output. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8AT_iioeIC0/VF73AM_sDSI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/MqdXEPZci-A/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8AT_iioeIC0/VF73AM_sDSI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/MqdXEPZci-A/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At 7.2V input, the circuit provides 5.79V. Looks like transistor B-E voltage drop is 0.79V at 1.0A load.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fmYuJ5wVqA/VF72-1wARoI/AAAAAAAAAGI/BqzdnFqL60U/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fmYuJ5wVqA/VF72-1wARoI/AAAAAAAAAGI/BqzdnFqL60U/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although 10V won't be encountered in the R/C car I thought I'd see how the circuit handled this condition. Still good, output voltage within the designed range of 4.5V to 6.0V.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RMt860Q2eZs/VF73C56_wjI/AAAAAAAAAGY/-TQfhtZfjww/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RMt860Q2eZs/VF73C56_wjI/AAAAAAAAAGY/-TQfhtZfjww/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And here's the assembled circuit, using 'high rise architecture' method. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2O68o-JT9o/VF78F5WhtVI/AAAAAAAAAGw/EaoiYpJrMZ4/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2O68o-JT9o/VF78F5WhtVI/AAAAAAAAAGw/EaoiYpJrMZ4/s1600/RC%2BBattery%2BEliminator%2B004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I put the whole thing in some large heatshrink before installing in the car.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thanks for reading. Have fun with electronics!</span>Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-11781682050071671912014-02-22T09:38:00.000+11:002014-02-22T09:38:16.482+11:00How to Disable Driver Signature Enforcement in Windows 8Here's a quick post on how to disable the signature check for drivers in Windows 8 and allow unsigned drivers to be installed.
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You might want to do this if a vendor's driver hasn't been signed, which I had to do for an old Tektronix Phaser 7700 printer; or if you are trying to load a modified driver, such as the HP 5590 ScanJet driver modified for 4500 ScanJet hardware, as described in another <a href="http://theconstantmeddler.blogspot.com.au/2008/11/how-to-really-make-scanjet-4500c-work.html" title="Finally, a solution for HP ScanJet 4500C on Windows 7/8">post</a> at TheConstantMeddler.
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If you attempt to In Windows 8 you are no longer prompted when attempting to install unsigned drivers, instead the driver installation fails silently or retries in an endless loop. Disabling driver signature enforcement requires restarting Windows 8, and then the ability to install unsigned drivers lasts until the next restart.
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On to the procedure...
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Show charms by moving cursor to screen top right, click Settings -> Change PC Settings -> General -> 'Restart Now' under Advanced Startup<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1vQyDD5a1A/UwfRVl2QPkI/AAAAAAAAADU/eSp8ZJ3DQ-w/s1600/4500-1a.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1vQyDD5a1A/UwfRVl2QPkI/AAAAAAAAADU/eSp8ZJ3DQ-w/s320/4500-1a.png" /></a>
<img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OXDA0sBC-VA/UwfRb9KaqKI/AAAAAAAAADs/K9dDZleO6nU/s200/imageedit_2_4016991287.png" />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dxstiQbJmtQ/UwfRVh21hMI/AAAAAAAAADg/yAKe96Y3q3o/s1600/4500-1b.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dxstiQbJmtQ/UwfRVh21hMI/AAAAAAAAADg/yAKe96Y3q3o/s320/4500-1b.png" /></a>
<img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OXDA0sBC-VA/UwfRb9KaqKI/AAAAAAAAADs/K9dDZleO6nU/s200/imageedit_2_4016991287.png" />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE1HtcasqAQ/UwfRWBPhozI/AAAAAAAAADc/1mkDjE8YpEY/s1600/4500-3.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE1HtcasqAQ/UwfRWBPhozI/AAAAAAAAADc/1mkDjE8YpEY/s320/4500-3.png" /></a>
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Choose 'Troubleshoot'
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T2xqbbSUqSI/UwfTOQOV-II/AAAAAAAAAD8/JKSxmUWwyds/s1600/IMG_1211.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T2xqbbSUqSI/UwfTOQOV-II/AAAAAAAAAD8/JKSxmUWwyds/s400/IMG_1211.JPG" /></a>
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Then 'Advanced Options'
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mw8W-L-O2Y/UwfTNrtBFtI/AAAAAAAAAD4/vMACUHsJAyY/s1600/IMG_1212.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_mw8W-L-O2Y/UwfTNrtBFtI/AAAAAAAAAD4/vMACUHsJAyY/s400/IMG_1212.JPG" /></a>
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'Startup Settings'
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0hGBxzxtD8/UwfTOXA8ZNI/AAAAAAAAAEE/ozMQkW3qdV0/s1600/IMG_1213.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0hGBxzxtD8/UwfTOXA8ZNI/AAAAAAAAAEE/ozMQkW3qdV0/s400/IMG_1213.JPG" /></a>
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And click 'Restart' (we're almost there!)
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ArNw36zmXJY/UwfTWaUlMcI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/PJ5V7qTQyOo/s1600/IMG_1214.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ArNw36zmXJY/UwfTWaUlMcI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/PJ5V7qTQyOo/s400/IMG_1214.JPG" /></a>
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Now press <strong>7</strong> to startup with Driver Signature Enforcement disabled.
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bYUQgIRFa1A/UwfTXFsVI2I/AAAAAAAAAEY/VziT6sCVf5I/s1600/IMG_1215.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bYUQgIRFa1A/UwfTXFsVI2I/AAAAAAAAAEY/VziT6sCVf5I/s400/IMG_1215.JPG" /></a>
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That's it. Now when you attempt to install an unsigned driver you should get a prompt like below allowing you to install.
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nk19xPMu8Uw/UwfUmgYCHUI/AAAAAAAAAEg/jEZm8wY2W1E/s1600/4500-4.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nk19xPMu8Uw/UwfUmgYCHUI/AAAAAAAAAEg/jEZm8wY2W1E/s320/4500-4.png" /></a>Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2260621711746521384.post-74422017560051948802008-11-07T20:36:00.002+11:002015-10-21T20:39:07.460+11:00Finally, a solution for HP ScanJet 4500C on Windows 7/8<i>2014-02-21 - Updated for Windows 8</i>
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<br />
I've been working at getting my old HP ScanJet 4500C working with Windows 7 x64 for a while now, and I finally cracked it! I can't believe how simple the solution turned out to be.
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<br />
So, straight into the details.
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<br />
The basic idea is to use the HP driver software for the ScanJet 5590. Since the 5590 has a different USB product id (1705) to the ScanJet 4500C (1205), we need to alter the 5590 software package's inf file before installing.<br />
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Uninstall any existing HP driver software for the ScanJet 4500C. In device manager uninstall the existing hp scanjet 4500 item.<br />
<br />
1. Download the Full Feature Software and Driver package from the <a href="http://h20565.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/public/psi/swdHome/?sp4ts.oid=377691" target="_blank">HP ScanJet 5590</a> drivers page.<br />
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2. Extract the contents of this file using your zip application. I recommend <a href="http://www.7-zip.org/" target="_blank">7-zip</a>.<br />
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3. Edit <span style="font-family: courier new;">Hpgt5590.inf</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span>with a text editor and replace each occurrence of <span style="font-family: courier new;">'_1705'</span> with <span style="font-family: courier new;">'_1205' </span>There should be 3.<br />
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4. Install the software by running <span style="font-family: courier new;">HPZstub.exe</span>. You might expect setup.exe to be the launcher, but it isn't. You can Connect your 4500c scanner when prompted during the install.<br />
<br />
<i>The remaining steps deal with driver signature enforcement in Windows 8</i><br />
5. Since the .inf file has now been 'tampered' with, the supplied driver hash is invalid and Windows probably hasn't loaded the driver. To allow Windows to load our modified driver, go ahead and disable driver signature enforcement. If you don't know how to do this, check out this <a href="https://www.blogger.com/2014/02/how-to-disable-driver-signature.html" target="_blank">post</a>.<br />
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6. In Devices and Printers select the hp scanner device and update the driver.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMsjIFPsSd4/UwZtTWmB-GI/AAAAAAAAABk/RoMrOKQooG4/s1600/4500-2.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMsjIFPsSd4/UwZtTWmB-GI/AAAAAAAAABk/RoMrOKQooG4/s320/4500-2.png" /></a><br />
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Choose to specify driver from a specific location and browse to the extracted 5590 files you created above. You will get a warning like this, go ahead and 'install the driver anyway'.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fsRLcDbPgSU/UwZuaQT3Z_I/AAAAAAAAACE/wwYza7EbO7M/s1600/4500-4.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fsRLcDbPgSU/UwZuaQT3Z_I/AAAAAAAAACE/wwYza7EbO7M/s320/4500-4.png" /></a>
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If HP Solution Center complains that it cannot find your scanner, it may be using the original 4500c/5550 driver. Go to device manager and uninstall the 4500c device. Re-install and specify the driver in the location of your modified Hpgt5590.inf file.<br />
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Happy scanning!Paul Vellahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10269857397500863376noreply@blogger.com49